Change in fashion happens all the time. All my past articles talked about Demna going to Gucci, Pier Paolo Piccioli going to Balenciaga, Jonathan Anderson to Dior, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez to Loewe, but when you think it’s done, the field changes again.
Anthony Vaccarello has left Saint Laurent, leaving the seat vacant for the first time in 10 years. Vaccarello grew the company to new heights and took over when Hedi Slimane—who still has yet to go to another house—left. His final collection went all out with an all gold theme that felt palatial, the antithesis of what Vaccarello did during his time, which was more extravagant yet understated in color.
This came to no surprise as it has been rumored for months. With that, it is suspected that Chemena Kamali, who previously worked with Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, will take over. Kamali just recently took over Chloé and maximized the boho-vibe that everyone knew Chloé to be, making it relevant again. Demand in ready-to-wear is up, climbing to double digits across the Richemont Maisons to the point where the house has recovered a clarity of point of view it had been missing.
Then later that day, we find out both Sean McGirr left Alexander McQueen and Veronica Leoni left Calvin Klein.
McGirr at McQueen was heavily criticised, but it is hard to follow in the shoes of McQueen and Sarah Burton; he never clicked with the public or journalists, really only having one major standout: Lana Del Rey at the Met Gala in 2024.
Leoni at Calvin Klein was difficult for me because I felt like it wasn’t given a chance. After only four seasons, she left, but I always think about the silver dress Greta Lee wore at the first show. It felt like the real 90s aesthetic that everyone is chasing that was popularized by Carolyn Bessette.
This is how the industry works though. If you aren’t relevant after one season, you’re out. Stagnation doesn’t work, but there is a larger conversation to be had about not letting these companies grow into a new aesthetic. This makes me think that Tom Ford at Gucci would’ve been torn to pieces if he came into the scene today.
