It’s going to be lightyears before diversity and inclusion cease to be problematic within the fashion industry. Even though fashion is meant for the masses, the majority of people actually running and walking the shows are white and skinny. A few controversies come to mind right away: the recent fiasco with Dior Sauvage perfume featuring Johnny Depp and a Native American dancer, Gucci and Prada’s clothing evocative of blackface, Burberry’s noose-like hoodie knot, Dolce & Gabbana founder’s derogatory words towards Chinese people, and H&M’s racist children’s hoodie with the print “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle.” Regardless of whether people find them offensive or not, it’s a hard pill to swallow when the people supposedly being represented do not even have a seat at the table. Even sportswear companies like Nike and adidas are not immune to this kind of ignorance: adidas’ Jeremy Scott Roundhouse Mid Handcuffs, a.k.a. the shackled shoes, and all white Ultraboost Uncaged for Black History Month cannot go unmentioned. Nike also incurred controversy with its Air Max 1 Betsy Ross Flag and its unfair maternity leave policies. In particular, the communities that play a major role in consumption deserve to have a voice informing the world marketplace in a capitalistic society. Not investing in the people you profit from is wrong. We have to recognize white privilege and understand that minorities simply have a harder time climbing the ladder due to less people being in those important positions.
Now you see labels like Chanel and Gucci hiring directors to oversee diversity and inclusion for their companies. I’m not saying that companies have bad intentions at all; on the contrary, they’ve always made a conscious, visible effort to include everyone. However, there have been a few missteps along the way, and that is to be expected, but we should fix them while we can. It turns consumers off when brands make mistakes that have racist, sexist, or culturally-appropriating connotations. When done right, fashion has the potential to empower future creatives of all different backgrounds. More crucially, a diverse workforce that represents a multitude of ideas, strengths, and interests can effectively help a company put its best foot forward instead of being hampered by creative bore and stillness. It should be mandatory for labels to implement unconscious bias and diversity training for all employees. Designers, brands, and models all have a responsibility to positively impact the world around us. Improvements in diversity have occurred, but there need to be more changes before fashion can be seen as a true leader.
White men cannot be the only beneficiaries of a system designed to showcase the best artists have to offer. Equal representation of minorities in leadership positions can give historically excluded groups a platform to be heard and find solutions to societal problems. Gender discrimination and inappropriate behavior can no longer hide behind the long shadows of Caucasian men. Emphasizing leadership accountability and hiring opportunities for minorities can enable a company to make real progress in activating previously uninvolved communities. Not all designers have to be white. Not all models have to be skinny, perfect females. This institutional bias and these practices do not belong in an era of globalization. However, an effort to include minorities should never involve tokenism. The casting should feel authentic and necessary, not just filling a racial or gender quota. It’s okay for people to step outside their comfort zone, but this is definitely not affirmative action.
Fashion proves that there is much more to talk about besides pop culture references and social commentary. Pyer Moss, CLOT, and Patta are brands that are constantly pushing the boundaries of what fashion could and should be in terms of educating a new generation and establishing awareness of different global communities. Rihanna’s Savage Fenty brand does a great job of highlighting the wide range of body types in its lingerie line. Olivier Rousteing of Balmain and Virgil Abloh of Louis Vuitton are artistic directors that are the exception instead of the rule. If someone has the talent and skills, that person should never be turned down due to their physical characteristics. But the burden of increasing diversity should not be squarely placed on Rousteing or Abloh’s shoulders. It is a step in the right direction. Abloh’s example shows that someone with a non-traditional background can go from printing T-shirts to the menswear department of one of the most prestigious brands in the world. Regardless of what you think of Abloh’s designs, it’s clear that tectonic shifts are taking place and are rapidly transforming the shape of the fashion landscape. Inheriting this progressive thought for inclusivity is crucial to maintaining the attention of a young audience accustomed to seeing themselves the way they are. We have to maintain a balance between praising people for the good they are doing and encouraging them to go further. Otherwise, there cannot be enough room for emerging talent and support for existing designers. On the other hand, I also feel like political correctness is stifling the best instincts of great brands. I do believe that fashion has a role in provoking and exposing people to new, uncomfortable ideas. Fashion is about exposing the fun, distracted side of people, not necessarily about the deep sociopolitical values of society. Some brands may feel a need to stay true to those roots, but fashion should never be taken too seriously. After all, it’s just a piece of clothing, not something to ruin relationships. The current outrage and online rioting at each perceived mishap is another facet of the culture wars that seek to shame anyone who cares more about creativity than any political agenda. We would all be better off if we take a deep breath and consider the nonconformist nature of fashion. To paraphrase something I saw online, if all designers cared about was pleasing everyone, they would just produce product that would mean nothing to anyone. Fashion’s role in the world is reflecting society’s mistakes and confronting the consumer with garments that carry that legacy.
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