Supreme’s Fall/Winter ‘18 season is coming to an end, which means it’s time for a comprehensive review of this season. To the few that don’t know Supreme, it is the brand that serves as a cult to its fanatic worshipers around the world who would die (or at least willingly stand in the scorching heat or freezing cold) for the infamous box logo branded items. They are a brand that makes typical shopper lines around the block look short. The brand that makes authenticity look easy. This brand is now worth a billion dollars and was nominated for the 2018 Fashion Awards (previously named British Fashion Awards). Their growth is rapid; Supreme is rumored to be opening three new stores by the end of 2019 in San Francisco, Italy, and Germany. This could mean more box logo tees commemorating the occasion, as with the brand’s other 11 stores in Europe, Asia, and North America. There are also rumors of Supreme collaborating with luxury fashion brand Dolce & Gabbana (a follow up to Supreme’s epic Louis Vuitton collaboration in 2017), although the founder’s racist remarks towards China may change that. The multinational private equity firm Carlyle Group manages $212 billion in assets and its heavy investment of $500 million for a minority stake in Supreme seems to be paying off. According to Lyst, Supreme’s logo was recognized as the most powerful in the world, ahead of Champion, Gucci, Versace, and Louis Vuitton. Clearly, Supreme’s sartorial clout does not seem to be fading away anytime soon.
Cleveland Cavaliers player JR Smith even got a tattoo of the Supreme logo on the back of his right leg and may be in hot water with the NBA. The controversial basketball player was picked to model Supreme’s Nike and NBA collaboration which consisted of logo-covered apparel and footwear. The NBA explicitly prohibits “players from displaying any commercial logos or corporate insignia on their body or in their hair.”
Over the summer, Supreme released a New York Post exclusive newspaper cover with the simple box logo that attracted flocks of people to kiosks and newsstands to get their hands on a pair. Immediately after, newspapers went up for sale on eBay for $15 or more. It was a brilliant marketing move by a brand that prides itself on its burnished street cred.
Supreme released an 84-minute skate video by William Strobeck called “Blessed” on Black Friday, November 23, with an accompanying white tee and lookbook and hung up posters all around New York City commemorating the release. The skate video also released on iTunes. The throwback to the brand’s skate roots felt right as it captured the raw energy of the skaters instead of using special effects or an endless montage of flawless tricks. Watching the skaters perform tricks in their box logo tees with visible wear and tear made them look infinitely cooler than collectors and curators who like to keep their box logo tees in pristine condition. Kodak Black and Chief Keef performed at the after party of the friends and family showing at Village East Cinema.
Supreme’s fifth collaboration with Comme des Garcons Shirt was a smash success. It made its way back to the grand opening of Dover Street Market Los Angeles. My favorite piece was not the split box logo hoodie or tee, but rather the tan sweater. The Supreme CDG Air Force 1 with the split swoosh, a continuation to last year’s Supreme CDG Air Force 1 covered in eyes, also sold out immediately.
Supreme’s second collaboration of the season with The North Face released this week. Fleeces, parkas, hoodies, tees, headbands, bags were part of the collection constructed with Cordura and GORE-TEX. The first collaboration consisting of pieces constructed with premium lambskin leather was alright, but I think the second collaboration is better. There was a Supreme x The North Face Paper Down Nuptse jacket was rumored to be releasing this season, but it seems slated to drop next season.
So far, from the lookbook, we have seen a Santa Cruz Chameleon 27.5” bicycle (a sequel of sorts to the ultra-rare Supreme Brooklyn Machine Works bicycle released in 1998 — only 38 were available to the public), Tamiya Hornet RC car, Steiff teddy bear, Tag Heuer stopwatch, New Era box logo beanies, and, most excitingly, box logo crewnecks in a range of colors. All but one of the crewnecks are tonal, meaning the box logo is the same color as the crewneck itself. The red on gray is a standout but the rest are equally as attractive. The box logo crewnecks will come in a total of 9 colorways: black, navy, light blue, red, forest green, peach, mustard, and natural. The box logo crewnecks are without a doubt the most hyped items of the year and will be releasing next week on December 6, most likely prompting a frenzy of hypebeasts worldwide to try to cop this highly coveted piece of streetwear.
This season still proves that whatever Supreme decides to put its exceptionally recognizable mark on will sell out. In an age of declining brick-and-mortar retail stores and instant gratification, Supreme’s very presence is an anomaly with its endless lines and inflated resale prices. However, as an admirer of Supreme’s unique aesthetic, I am uncertain about the long-term future of Supreme. Streetwear has reached its peak and there’s nowhere else but down for the movement. Supreme’s core identity revolves around authenticity and rebellion against the establishment. Any other brand that tries to pull it off appears corny and fake. The irony is that Supreme is coming close to achieving the ubiquity that it once rebelled against so fiercely. The hyper-commercialization of streetwear is bound to burst the bubble at some point, with major brands already leaving streetwear behind. Although streetwear can never be fully extinguished, there will be a reckoning with the rise of resellers appropriating the mantle of popularity and moving on. There is no shortage of brands chasing after the hype of Supreme, but fashion is not all about hype. Hype is not synonymous with good taste. It’s remarkable to see a streetwear brand influencing and even leading the rest of the fashion world, but one wonders how long this will last — probably as long as Supreme continues to create distinctive product, which I sincerely hope will never end. Nevertheless, I wish the team all the best in fulfilling its wildest dreams.
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